Seville, Spain (August, 2021, Part I).

After four flights and three layovers in twenty-four hours of traveling from Memphis, a brutal heat wave greeted us in Seville.  During our first week the daily highs ranged from 101°F to 113°F. We are used to heat, so mid-90s is manageable, but 100 plus just plain sucks.  Folding fans are sold pretty much everywhere.  On a positive note, with these temperatures it was easy to adapt to the siesta culture!  Most stores, cafes, and bars are closed for several hours in mid- to late-afternoon.  There is little to do during the worst heat of the day.  Like the locals, we quickly learned to stay inside every afternoon.

Soon after arriving in Seville, Stephanie and I were seated at a sidewalk table at La Bodeguita el Greco, a tapas bar, eating torta de bacalao ahumado con salmorejo (a sweet, crispy flatbread covered with a thick tomato soup and smoked cod) and gambas ali-oli (shrimp and aioli sandwiches), among other local dishes involving olives, pork, potatoes, and sardines.  Our drink of choice was vino tinto con limón (cheap red wine mixed with lemon soft drink).  It was quite the introduction to tapas (small plates of food to share while drinking) in the Andalusia region of Spain.

My friend Dave, who studied at the Universidad de Sevilla and married a local girl, was in town and kind enough to give us a tour before he returned to the States.  We walked through Triana (the neighborhood in which we stayed), stopped at Manu Jara for coffee con leche and a pastry, crossed the Triana bridge, and strolled past the bullring, cathedral, and Real Alcázar.  Stephanie was excited to find a convenience store that sells Monster Tea and Lemonade.  Later we hopped in Dave’s car for an air conditioned tour farther out from the city center, which is how we ended up at La Bodeguita.  Demonstrating his hosting skills, and fluent Spanish, Dave took charge and ordered a series of authentic tapas and a selection of various beers and wines.  I would have bet – and lost – a decent amount against tinto con limón being our favorite drink.

After the heat wave passed, our first “tourist” stop was the Real Alcázar de Sevilla, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Essentially it is a Christian palace built on the site of a Moorish castle (https://www.alcazarSeville.org/en/history/).  Stephanie and I spent several hours walking around the buildings and grounds.  The Moorish section is most impressive for its Mudéjar architectural style emphasizing incredible tile work, along with various patios, gardens, and pools.  Our tour included the Cuarto Real Alto (the upper royal rooms) which has been used by the Kings of Spain for the past several centuries.  This section was constructed in the 16^th century, renaissance style.  The upper royal rooms now contain extensive 19^th century decorations (oil paintings, mahogany furniture, clocks, chandeliers, and so forth).  While the upper royal rooms are nice, without a doubt the Moorish section is the star of the Real Alcázar. 

The visit was all the more enjoyable because of the relatively few tourists that were present.  The Real Alcázar is currently selling tickets online only for designated time slots, and the imposed limits have reduced capacity to about ⅓ of the pre-pandemic crowds.  We bought our tickets a few months ago, and selected the first time slot.  We arrived before the gates opened and got in line behind about a hundred other folks.  Approaching the checkpoint, the couple in front of us was required to show identification with their tickets.  This caused some panic as Stephanie did not have her driver’s license or passport.  As we tried to find a copy of her identification saved online, we realized that identification was only required for those who qualified for discounted tickets.  We had to pay full price, 20€ each, which was well worth it.

Our second notable visit was to the Museo de Bellas Artes, Seville’s fine arts museum.  It is located in a palace and convent that were originally designed and constructed in the 17^th century, and includes several patios, gardens, and a pond.  Most of the paintings on permanent display are in the Renaissance style, which is not our favorite.  I enjoyed the temporary exhibition the most, a collection of photographs taken in the mid- to late-1800s of Seville and other cities in southern Spain.  We visited the museum on a weekday morning, and saw fewer than ten other visitors during our stay (http://www.museosdeandalucia.es/web/museodebellasartesdesevilla/).  Upon arrival we expected to pay the entry fee of 1.50€ each, but instead were admitted free for reasons I never understood. 

Stephanie and I are staying in Triana, which is outside the tourist area and across the river from the historic city center.  It is a 10 to 15 minute walk to the Triana bridge (Puenta de Triana), and about a 25 minute walk to the cathedral and Real Alcázar.  So far we have walked everywhere, averaging several miles a day.  Buses are supposedly a good way to get around, but we have not yet found a need to use them.  There is a metro line, but the closest station is about a mile from us, it does not go to the city center, and generally appears useless.  Nearby, within a quarter mile of our Airbnb, there are five or six markets (including an Aldi), probably a dozen or more restaurants and tapas bars, and several parks.  Overall we are in a great location.  If we were five minutes closer to the bridge, it would be perfect.

Despite not knowing much Spanish, other than “dos cervezas, por favor” (two beers, please), we have not hit any language barriers.  English is not widely spoken in Spain, but hand gestures and pointing work wonders.  The greatest difficulty is the grocery store, where everything looks familiar but is slightly different.  No major mishaps there, but a few minor surprises for sure.

Regarding the pandemic, the region of Andalusia requires masks indoors (unless eating or drinking at a restaurant) and outdoors, if social distancing is not possible.  About 60% of the folks wear a mask all the time.  It is common to see individuals walking completely alone on the sidewalk, no one else within 20 yards, wearing a mask.  About 30% of the folks do not wear a mask outdoors, but carry one for use as needed indoors.  Stephanie and I are in this category … as are, from my observations, most of the local dog owners.  The remaining 10% have a mask in the ready to use position (usually the chinstrap).  These folks quickly put their mask to use if anyone comes near them, following the social distancing rule to the letter when walking on the sidewalk.  Mask on or off depending on the presence of others walking nearby. 

We still have several weeks left in Seville and much exploring to do, including the Catedral de Sevilla, La Plaza de Toros, Plaza de España, and Setas de Sevilla.  Stay tuned.

Garrett and Stephanie

P.S. Thanks, Dave!