Stephanie and I finally ventured to the cathedral about two weeks after arriving in Seville. The Catedral de Sevilla is the largest Gothic structure in the world, one of the three or four largest cathedrals in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (https://www.catedraldesevilla.es/). The structure was originally constructed as a mosque and minaret in the 12th century, before being converted into a cathedral by the Christians centuries later. The minaret was repurposed as a bell tower, La Giralda, which stands today as one of the most recognized symbols of Seville.
We purchased our cathedral tickets online weeks earlier and were not sure what to expect upon arriving at our appointed time of 2:00 PM. A dedicated entrance for online tickets was set up next to La Giralda. We strolled straight inside – no line and no waiting – unlike the folks outside in the heat on the other side of the cathedral trying to buy same day tickets. We always do some basic planning and try to buy tickets in advance to major cultural sites. If a last minute same day ticket is required, we will go early in the morning to be near the front of the line. Losing several hours out of the day to wait in a long line is not for us.
Once inside we were guided directly to La Giralda, so up we went. The Moors constructed the minaret with ramps, 35 in all, apparently to accommodate horses. Later the Christians added a flight of stairs at the top leading to a bell platform. Going up and down ramps is much, much nicer than stairs. We got a workout walking to the top and back down in the mid-90s heat (wearing masks), but the view was worth it. So was the cool breeze.
After working up a sweat in La Giralda, narrowly avoiding heat stroke, we proceeded into the cathedral. It’s massive. We walked pretty much directly to the high alter, and were met with strategically placed fans and folding chairs. Again, there were relatively few tourists, which I can only assume is pandemic related crowd control. After a short break, Stephanie and I spent about 45 minutes exploring the rest of the cathedral. The center contains a choir section and organs. Numerous chapels are around the outer walls, as is the tomb of Christopher Columbus and other items on exhibit. It is difficult to describe the cathedral in words, so photos will have to do (and, yes, the highest level ceiling really is a yellow color from the lights used).
The following evening I returned to the cathedral for a rooftop tour, which Stephanie skipped. The 90 minute tour was conducted entirely in Spanish. I caught a few words, “Sevilla” and “buena”, but was essentially clueless as to what was being said. I just stayed in the middle of the group and followed along. From what I could tell, the first 30 minutes or so involved several short lectures on the cathedral and its construction. Our group (16 including the guide) went through a small, inconspicuous door on the cathedral floor into a narrow spiral staircase that led to the roof. From there we followed additional passageways and staircases as we went to different roof levels. We were given a lot of free time to wander around and take photos. The tour was not particularly strenuous, but you had to be comfortable in tight spaces. The stairs are all spiral, maybe two feet wide. It was difficult to go up or down the stairs without bouncing off the wall and/or center column. I went on the sunset tour starting at 8:00 PM and ending about 9:30 PM. With sunset shortly after 9:00 PM, the timing was perfect.
Another week later and the temperature actually dropped into the high-80s for a few days. It was perfect. We took this opportunity to check out La Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla, i.e. the bullring (https://realmaestranza.com/en/home/). The Real Maestranza de Caballería is an organization that traces its origins to the 17th century. Originally established to train noblemen in horsemanship and the use of weapons, today the organization supports equestrian sports, bullfighting, and maintains the bullring. The current bullring was constructed in phases during the 18th and 19th centuries. After the first phase of construction was complete, the center point of the ring was moved. This change resulted in the ring being smaller in size and slightly oval shaped instead of circular. Subsequent construction fully enclosed the now oval ring. The capacity is about 12,000 individuals, making it one of the largest bullrings in Spain.
Though bullfights are banned in many countries, and do not take place in certain regions in Spain, bullfights are part of the Andalusian culture and still held regularly in Seville. No bullfights were scheduled during our time here, so Stephanie and I took the self-guided tour instead. (Stephanie does not condone bullfighting and would not have gone to a bullfight regardless.) We went through a small museum consisting of paintings, prints, and memorabilia on display, past the Court of Horses and onsite chapel, and out into the bullring itself. The self-guided tour lasts about 30 minutes. Thankfully we went on a Wednesday afternoon when the tour was free. The usual price of 10€ is a bit much for the experience. Overall it was a great visit and we really enjoyed it, but really you’re paying for the privilege of simply walking out onto the bullring itself.
Although we have been in Seville for several weeks, there are still several major tourist sites that we have not yet visited. We are living as retirees, not taking a permanent vacation. We are not in a rush to see every tourist site in a week. Zero souvenirs have been purchased, except for a few postcards to mail home. Traveling with overstuffed carry-on luggage and backpacks makes the purchase of souvenirs and gifts impractical. As in Memphis, I have time to read a book or two each week, watch sports, and work on photographs. Stephanie is learning to make videos.
More importantly, for our budget and health, we do not eat out every meal. During our first two weeks in Seville, we went to only four restaurants. Instead Stephanie and I became familiar with our small kitchen. It is fully equipped with a refrigerator, oven, cooktop, and microwave, as well as a toaster and tea kettle. We quickly became adept at cooking with the limited cookware at our disposal. For some reason we have three skillets, one pot (without a lid), one baking sheet, two small Tupperware containers, and a few odds and ends. We have plenty of silverware and knives, but no spatulas, graters, or measuring cups – luckily our travel water bottles are marked in both milliliters and ounces. We bought a few kitchen essentials (salt, pepper, olive oil, mayonnaise, mustard, and ketchup), but otherwise have managed well with what we have.
We go to the grocery store every few days. The employees at the nearby Dia, where we shop most often, probably wonder why the two foreigners cannot figure out how to buy more than two days worth of food and drink at a time. Part of it is uncertainty and indecision. We have plenty of time, and simply do not need to plan meals a week in advance. The second reason is more practical. Everything must be carried back to our apartment, which is about a five minute walk. Bread, lunchmeat, and cereal are not a problem. Carrying multiple liters of vino tinto, tea, and Diet Coke is not so much fun. Judging by the other shoppers, we are probably not that much different from the locals in this respect.
Our plan is to post a new blog entry twice a month, on the 1st and the 15th. Additional posts will occur somewhat randomly depending on travels and activities. In our next regularly scheduled post we will have more on Seville, including the Setas de Sevilla, Plaza de España, and a return to the Real Alcázar. Before then, however, we will share the details from our overnight trip to Ronda.
Garrett and Stephanie
VERY interesting ‼️