In 2009, we used Rick Steves’ Prague & The Czech Republic to plan our day-to-day activities. Not this trip. We quit using guidebooks years ago. Now our planning is based around internet articles, YouTube videos, and recent reviews from other travelers.
Generally a cursory scan of about a half dozen articles or videos touting a top 10 or top 20 list for any given city will generate about a half-dozen activities that we might be interested in. From there a bit more focused research results in a list of places to go, when, and at what cost.
One benefit of not being rushed is having the time and ability to take in something totally unexpected. Like horse racing at Chuchle Arena Praha. We had no idea there was a horse track in Prague. One Friday afternoon we were waiting at a tram stop when our tram arrived, adorned from top to bottom with advertisements for the 102nd Lokotrans Cena Prezidenta Republiky (Lokotrans President Stakes).
Five minutes later Stephanie found the details: Sunday, October 22, 2023; gates open at 11:00 AM; first race at 1:00 PM; admission, 200 Kč; and, food trucks on site. That Sunday the weather was perfect, and we quickly decided to spend our afternoon at the track.
We took a train to Chuchle (which is still in Prague and included with our monthly Pid Litačka pass) and walked across the street along with a hundred or so folks arriving on the same train. We were near the back of the line, so it probably took us 20 minutes to buy our tickets and program.
Admission cost 200 Kč each and a program, that we couldn’t read, was another 50 Kč. After a bit we were able to decipher what most of the statistics conveyed about the horses, but that really did not help us with our betting. Thankfully we brought plenty of cash because Chuchle is cash only.
While walking towards the grandstands we saw horses for the first race being paraded around in a circle with their jockeys. All of the horses calmly and quietly walked around except for one. No. 5, Maximillian, was trying to rip free from his handler, jump the fence, and take off running now. He was very hyper and borderline out of control. It seemed to us that he would either win the race or flame out and finish last. So we took a chance and placed a 100 Kč bet on No. 5 to win.
Walking through the arena there is a restaurant and bar on the main level, below on the ground floor are several food and beer stands and, just outside, food trucks and kids play activities. The food and drink prices were very reasonable – not jacked up to ridiculous prices like you’d expect in the United States.
Betting windows are everywhere. There were also several temporary betting windows set up, not to mention a betting truck sitting among the food trucks.
Upstairs is the Derby Club Room, a semi-formal area with catered food and drinks included for the low admission price of 1,700 Kč per person (about $75). Yeah, not for us. We forgot our semi-formal clothes on this trip.
We made our way to the grandstands and found a couple of seats. Seating is first come first served. The crowd near the finish line was overflowing. At the other end, where we ended up, there was plenty of room to spread out.
The starting gate was set up on the backstretch. After the horses took their positions in the gate the announcer counted down to the start. At least that is what it sounded like. And then the horses took off, running in the wrong direction. We learned real quick that horses run clockwise in Europe, not counterclockwise as in the United States.
Much to our surprise, the winner of the first race was none other than No. 5, Maximillian. The payout was a nice 1,200 Kč. Afterwards Maximillian was walking very calmly around the winner’s circle. Job well done.
We stayed at the track several hours and watched five of the eight races, leaving early to get back to Prague to run some errands before dinner.
Over the course of the afternoon we placed bets totaling 550 Kč, with total winnings of 1,367 Kč. (Thanks, Maximillian!) After accounting for our admission tickets and program, our net profit for the afternoon was 367 Kč. Okay, that’s only about $15.80 but we will take it. It was a great afternoon.
The next afternoon we found ourselves walking through Letenská Pláň (Letna Park). Situated high on a hill across the Vltava River from Old Town, Letna Park has a pond, walking trails, too many benches to count, playgrounds, cafés, restaurants, the absolute best views of Prague, and relatively few tourists.
Perhaps not by coincidence we came upon an outdoor beer garden. There went our winnings from the horse track, traded in for beers.
Nicknamed the city of one hundred spires, which is quite an apt description, Prague has numerous towers in town that will allow you to see the city from above if the view from Letna Park is not enough. To entice you to visit the towers, Prague sells a multi-tower ticket, “9 objects in 365 days”, for 990 Kč. Included are the following (with the standard adult admission price noted):
Petrin Tower (Petřínská rozhledna, 220 Kč);
Petrin Maze (Zrcadlové bludiště na Petříně, 120 Kč) (this is the object, not a tower);
St. Nicholas Bell Tower (Svatomikulášská městská zvonice, 190 Kč);
Old Town Hall Tower (Staroměstská radnice, 300 Kč);
Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž, 190 Kč);
Lesser Town Bridge Tower (Malostranská mostecká věž, 190 Kč);
Powder Gate (Prašná brána, 190 Kč);
New Mill Water Tower (Novomlýnská vodárenská věž, 150 Kč); and,
Klemintinum (300 Kč).
At full price, you’d pay 1,850 Kč to visit all of these, making 990 Kč an exceptional deal. If you are in Prague and want to visit all of the towers, the “9 objects” ticket is the discount ticket you want.
If you do not have the desire to climb eight towers, consider that all (except Old Town Hall Tower) offer a 50% discount during the first hour each morning. If you only want to go up a few towers, and do not mind doing so in the first hour, this is your best option.
Another possibility to reduce the cost is buying combination tickets. Several towers are combined with another for a two in one ticket price (Petrin Tower and Petrin Maze; Old Town Bridge Tower and Lesser Town Bridge Tower; Powder Gate and New Mill Water Tower).
Only two of the towers, Petrin Tower and Old Town Hall Tower, have an elevator option and you’re paying extra if you want to take it.
In our opinion, Old Town Hall Tower and Klemintinum offer two of the best tower viewpoints in Prague. If you have not visited Prague previously, then you should visit these two, along with the Old Town Bridge Tower.
Although I enjoy tower lookouts, we opted against the “9 objects” ticket. Having previously scaled Petrin Tower, Old Town Hall Tower, and the Klemintinum tower, we decided to skip those on this trip. Instead we’re going to the Old Town Bridge Tower, Lesser Town Bridge Tower, and St. Nicholas Bell Tower, none of which we walked up during our last trip to Prague.
Kostel sv. Mikuláše in Malá Strana (Church of St. Nicholas in Lesser Town, not to be confused with a church of the same name in Old Town) is a gorgeous Baroque church that took 100 years to build, reaching completion in the 1750s.
Although we are generally not fans of Baroque churches, this one is different. For reasons unknown, probably the large marble statues and balcony, we really enjoy visiting this church. It is well worth the 130 Kč admission price.
We timed our visit to about 9:30 AM, so that afterwards we could head straight over to the adjacent bell tower, taking advantage of the 50% first hour discount. The tower was completed in 1755, about the same time as the church, but is actually city property. It was built as a separate watch tower and clock tower, not technically the church’s bell tower.
The tower is fairly wide, making for an easy staircase heading up. Along the way are three exhibition rooms, as well as a few other landing areas to rest, if needed. Unlike the south tower at St. Vitus Cathedral, this is not a difficult trip up.
At 215 steps you finally reach the Gallery level, a narrow balcony circling the tower. Here are great views over Lesser Town, across the Vltava River, and towards Old Town. Unfortunately the church’s dome blocks the view of the Prague Castle.
Another couple of flights of stairs up brings you to the top of the tower. Nothing but four small windows, one looking in each direction. Don’t bother making the trip up from the Gallery level. It is not worth the extra steps.
Around the corner from the Church of St. Nicholas is San Carlo Malá Strana. We hadn’t intended to go to an Italian restaurant but it was recommended, had great reviews, and I was ready for a pizza and beer after walking up several towers.
As much as we enjoyed our visits to Czech restaurants, this place topped them both.
Garrett and Stephanie
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