Our Airbnb is basically next door to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (Artecard free; otherwise €22 per person, or €40 per couple). We saved our visit to the archaeology museum for a cold day to avoid being outside. Unfortunately we learned too late that the museum is not heated, and it was still pretty cold inside. We did not need to wear gloves indoors, but it was close at times.
We arrived at the museum’s entrance mid-morning on a Monday, running into quite a few school groups lining up to go in. Given the size of the museum it was easy to avoid them. Few other visitors were present.
The museum is filled with items from Greek and Roman times: terracotta; bronze; marble statues; coins; and, mosaics. Our favorite exhibit consisted of frescoes and objects from Pompeii. We spent about two and a half hours in the museum. It is very spacious, easy to get around, and the signs are in both Italian and English.
The Toledo metro station is two stops away from the Museo metro station (basically our “home” station). Toledo is probably the most beautiful metro station in Naples, with its mosaic walls and blue green lighting effects. You can easily identify the tourists here, as they’re the ones staring up while taking photos and videos. Like this:
I don’t have any video from the Museo metro station because it is unremarkable. Among the blandest and dirtiest in Naples. But it does have pretty good street art outside:
In addition to its two metro lines, Naples has four funiculars in the city, three of which connect to the hill top neighborhood of Vomero. Our first funicular ride was from Montesanto up to Morghen to visit Castel Sant’Elmo and Certosa e Museo di San Martino, which overlook Naples, the Tyrrhenian Sea, and Mount Vesuvius.
Castel Sant’Elmo (Artecard free; otherwise €5), unique with its six figure star configuration, dates to mid-1500s. The views of Naples and Mount Vesuvius from here are probably the best in the area. A small local museum is found on top of the castle, but for most folks the only reason come here is for the expansive views.
Certosa e Museo di San Martino (a former Carthusian monastery and museum) (Artecard free; otherwise €6) is situated just below Castel Sant’Elmo and definitely worth a visit. Construction of this complex began in 1325. Renovations occurred near constantly over the next five centuries. It has been a public museum since 1867.
Another great view of Naples and Mount Vesuvius can be had from Belvedere San Martino, an overlook just outside the entrance to the museum.
As expected, most of the artwork in the museum falls into the category of religious themes. My favorite section of the museum is a small photography exhibit depicting Naples over the past 100 plus years.
The star of the visit is a fascinating Baroque church – probably the most beautiful and interesting church or cathedral in Naples. A good chance exists that we will return here (using our second Artecard free visit) before leaving.
It was on our walk to Certosa e Museo di San Martino that we realized an important fact of life as a tourist in Naples. If a local says that you look like an Italian, they are trying to sell you something. As in “Where are your from” quickly followed with “Oh, but you look just like an Italian”.
When you hear that phrase, you can bet on being sold something in the next 30 seconds. Fortunately the street sellers are fairly polite and not pushy. Once they’re certain you’re not interested, you will be left alone.
Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara is the other monastery that we visited in Naples. Our visit started in the Gothic church. Stephanie, in particular, liked the simplicity of the church. For me it was just plain vanilla. We then walked around the corner to the ticket office for entry into the adjacent monastery area.
After paying €6 to enter (no Artecard discount), we found ourselves in a large courtyard full of orange trees, fountains, and majolica benches and pillars. We walked around the courtyard, first stopping into a room displaying a few ancient books. Next we took in the small museum, which is dedicated to the restoration of the church after almost being destroyed in a WWII air raid. The museum is mildly interesting. Really we paid €6 each to enter a very nice courtyard.
After leaving Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara we walked down the street to La Locanda Gesù Vecchio for lunch. Stephanie somehow found this restaurant and convinced me to go. It is a Michelin starred restaurant that has tablecloths and cloth napkins. Much to my delight the tablecloths are actually paper and the prices are more than reasonable.
For an appetizer we split an order of bruschette miste (mixed). Stephanie ordered ziti alla genovese while I splurged for coniglio alla cacciatora (rabbit) with a Peroni Gran Riserva Rossa to drink. I’ll admit, it was damn good, both the rabbit and the beer. We might – just might – consider returning.
One thing to know about restaurants in Italy (at least southern Italy) is that each person is charged a service fee of €1.50 to €2.50 for dining in. Keep that in mind if you decide to stop at a restaurant or café in the middle of the afternoon for a drink. You probably don’t want to pay a service fee to sit for a short time.
It is now my turn to select a restaurant. Ideally we will go to a random place on the street that sells pizza and a beer for under €10. And we will probably get it to go.
Garrett and Stephanie
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Thank you for your great photos and commentary! Always interesting!