Our first trip to Grand Canyon National Park was on vacation in October, 2019. Then we decided to visit the north rim for two reasons. First, I wanted to go to Toroweap (a/k/a Tuweep), which is on the north rim. Second, we were trying to win the lottery and secure a permit to hike the Wave. Neither is feasible to do from the south rim. Instead we stayed in Kanab, Utah for a few days before driving into the park itself.
Our first Grand Canyon experience was on a tour to Toroweap with Dreamland Safari Tours. The guide took us on about a one hour walk around the best of Toroweap’s viewpoints before turning us loose to explore on our own for a few hours before a picnic lunch. Here the Colorado River flows through a gorge with 3,000 foot sheer cliffs on either side, and the vast plateau is wide open.
Though Stephanie would probably disagree, this may be the best day trip we have ever taken. I need to figure out a way to do an overnight at Toroweap during the summer.
We were not lucky enough to get a Wave permit in 2019, so our alternate tour was to White Pocket in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, also with Dreamland Safari Tours. There were only three of us on the tour, and we had a great time hiking and climbing around and over the rock formations.
On a return trip to Utah in 2023, we actually won the Wave lottery. Our hike to the Wave is recounted here.
The morning after touring White Pocket, we drove to the north rim, straight to the North Kaibab Trailhead parking lot. We were incredibly lucky to get a parking spot, though a few hours later Stephanie probably wished we hadn’t.
We hiked the North Kaibab Trail to the Supai Tunnel, basically straight down 2 miles and 1,400 feet … and then straight back up. It’s a mule trail, too, and smells like it. The hike took us several hours, with Stephanie cussing me every step of the way. (We skipped a repeat of this hike in 2024.)
Seriously, though, the best place to experience the Grand Canyon is at least some distance below the rim. Take a lot of water and know your limits. As the signs say, going down is optional, coming up is mandatory.
After checking into the lodge we relaxed a bit before dinner at the Lodge Dining Room. I remember dinner being okay, but expensive. We were on vacation so it was fine. (There was no way in hell we were going to this restaurant again in 2024).
I got up early to go to Point Imperial for sunrise and very quickly decided that Point Imperial is my favorite overlook in Grand Canyon, period. Then Stephanie and I spent some time exploring the walks and overlooks around the lodge, going to the visitor center, and checking out the gift shop, before lunch at Deli in the Pines.
Afternoon was spent sightseeing along Cape Royal Road, starting at Point Imperial and ending at Cape Royal. Along the way we hiked the trail to Cape Final, an easy trail (4 miles roundtrip) over rolling hills through a mature pine forest ending at a rocky outcrop with great views. This is a really great hike.
By the time sunset rolled around we were enjoying the views from Angel’s Window and Cape Royal. Then the wind picked up and it got real cold in a hurry. We planned to stay at Cape Royal to see the stars. Instead we left as soon as the sun went down.
That night we went to the saloon for a late dinner of bar snacks and beer. We met a couple from Australia and stayed to closing time drinking beer with them. It cost a small fortune but was okay because we were on vacation. (We stayed out of the saloon in 2024, avoiding all temptations.) Unfortunately our new Australian friends did not know you have to book accommodations months in advance at the Grand Canyon. They ended up spending the night in their car in near freezing weather.
We were up early the next morning to give us time to detour to Grand Canyon’s south rim for a few hours on our way to Flagstaff. After a five hour drive we pulled into the south rim Visitor Center parking lot in early afternoon. We took in the view from Mather Point before hopping onto our first bus of the afternoon, riding over to the Grand Canyon Village. At the Village we walked the rim trail, stopping to look in a few gift stores and art studios, finishing up at the Bright Angel Trailhead.
Unsure of the best way to spend a few more hours, we chose to get on another bus to the overlooks on Hermit Road. After waiting in line we got onto a packed bus, deciding to exit at Hopi Point. I don’t think we could have stayed on the bus any longer. After looking around Hopi Point we walked over to Powell Point and did the same. By then we were ready to go, so we got in line to catch a return bus back to the Village.
Unfortunately it took about an hour for us to get on a bus. All of the buses stopping at Powell Point on the return trip to the Village were jam packed. No one was exiting. There were dozens of us in line, repeatedly being taunted by full busses, left to stand waiting in the sun. Finally someone at dispatch got the message that a mass heat stroke event was going to take place at Powell Point unless some empty busses were sent. Two empty busses arrived getting most of the waiting folks, but not all, back to the Village.
We quickly jumped onto yet another crowded bus for a ride back to the Visitor Center and the parking lot, got in our car, and left. Our lasting memory of being at the south rim is fighting for space with other tourists. At least we learned a valuable lesson, that is not to visit the south rim unless in winter.
Four months later, I was right back at the south rim to hike to Phantom Ranch in January, 2020.
Garrett and Stephanie
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