I never imagined going to the Galapagos Islands. But here we are, about to start an eight day, seven night cruise around the eastern, central, and southern Galapagos Islands on board the Archipel I.
Parque Nacional Galápagos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park covers 97% of the land on the archipelago. The surrounding oceans are protected by the Reserva Marina Galápagos. Protection of the islands and oceans is taken very seriously by the Ecuadorian government.
At the Quito airport, we first stop at the counter of the Consejo de Gobierno del Régimen Especial de Galápagos (the Governing Council of the Galapagos Special Regime, or CGREG for short) to buy Transit Control Cards for $20 each. The government wants to know exactly when you are going to the islands, where you are staying, and when you are leaving. You must show a valid Transit Control Card to board the plane and pass through security upon arrival in the islands.
Luckily there were only about 10 people in line so it did not take long to get our cards. While waiting we listened to a smorgasbord of conversations in other languages, particularly European and Middle Eastern.
Next we head over to the special Galapagos Islands luggage screening area. All luggage is screened to ensure no invasive species or potential biological contaminants are taken to the islands. Suitcases must have a special zip lock showing that screening was done and the luggage contents are safe for travel.
From there we head to the Avianca counter to check in for our flight from Quito to Baltra. After an uneventful flight we find ourselves in a lengthy line to enter the islands.
Traveling to the Galapagos Islands from the Ecuador mainland is basically no different than flying to another country. Passports, check. Vaccine cards, yes. Transit Control Cards, of course. Pay $100 each for the national park fee, done. Last step is another round of luggage screening.
Some lady from California did not have $100 in cash for the national park fee. She expected working ATM machines at the Baltra airport. Not smart. After much begging in line she scrounged up $100.
Walking out of the airport we were met by Marvi, our naturalist. The national park requires that a naturalist accompany all tour groups.
A short bus ride took us to a dock. There we first experienced the two constants of our daily routine. First, zodiacs. We rode those boats six to eight times a day. Second, sea lions. You have to dodge them almost everywhere.
Archipel I, a catamaran, was our home for the week. With eight cabins it can handle a maximum of 16 passengers. There were only 12 passengers on our cruise, along with nine crew members and our naturalist. The crew did a great job. They were very enthusiastic about the trip and worked hard to make things run smoothly.
The chef cooked up some seriously good food, including a lot of Ecuadorian dishes. Breakfast was typically toast, fresh fruit, cheese, yogurt, granola, cereal, eggs, pancakes, and bacon. Lunch and dinner included some combination of shrimp, tuna, grouper, chicken or beef, along with rice, potatoes, pasta, steamed vegetables, salads, and bread.
Desserts were served at both lunch and dinner. The extra sugar was necessary to help us keep up with what was a pretty full daily schedule. Snacks were served twice daily, usually a fruit drink and small appetizer.
The bar had a pretty good selection of liquor (at an extra cost). The beer choices were so-so, but that was okay. Stephanie had a couple of beers during the week. I went booze free.
Eight passengers were American; two were from Ecuador and two from Sweden. Three of the 12 were younger than Stephanie and I. The average age was probably mid- to late-60s. Everyone was super nice and a pleasure to be around.
On the afternoon of our arrival we headed straight to Mosquera Islet, a tiny island near Baltra. Sea lions, marine iguanas, crabs, and sea birds were in abundance. We roamed the island for an hour or so. It was a great introduction as to what we could expect during the week.
Park rules require that visitors stay at least two meters away from the wildlife. If you do so, the animals will largely ignore you. But there is always one young sea lion that likes to run towards folks, so you have to be ready to move quickly when around them.
Overnight the Archipel traveled north from Mosquera to Isla Genovesa, our day two location. We crossed the equator at some point during the night. Fortunately the boat was relatively stable, with only mild rocking. Neither of us got sea sick, nor did anyone else on the boat.
Disclaimer: We brought a box of Bonine motion sickness tablets and took one each night as a matter of precaution. I doubt we needed them, but better safe than sorry.
Genovesa is known for its massive population of birds, including short-eared owls, frigates, boobies, gulls, herons, egrets, mockingbirds, finches, warblers, petrels, and all sorts of other birds. This island is a birder’s paradise.
In the morning we went up Prince Philip’s Steps to a trail that led across part of the island. Birds were everywhere. Keeping two meters away from them was near impossible as many birds were content to sit in the middle of the trail.
That afternoon we went to Darwin Bay Beach for a short nature walk and snorkeling.
Our naturalist was really excited to go snorkeling, specifically to see sharks. He was not kidding. We saw a scalloped hammerhead shark along with plenty of white-tipped reef sharks and Galapagos sharks. We learned pretty quickly that sharks are not interested in people. They typically swam away from us.
If sharks of any type scare you, avoid snorkeling or diving in Galapagos.
After exploring Genovesa, the Archipel traveled back to the southern hemisphere for our day three stops at Isla Bartolomé and Sullivan Bay. At Bartolomé we were greeted with a wooden walkway, and 372 steps, heading to the top of the island. Our naturalist was kind enough to take several breaks on the way up.
The view of Pinnacle Rock and the surrounding islands from the top of Bartolomé is rightfully considered one of the best in Galapagos.
That afternoon we walked on a lava field on Isla Santiago. This was the first time our nature “walk” was on uneven terrain, but it was manageable. After an hour or so of tromping around on lava, it was time for the afternoon snorkel in Sullivan Bay.
We quickly found a small colony of Galapagos penguins under Pinnacle Rock. Penguins, like sharks, are not interested in people. They generally swam away from us. Unlike 8 to 10 foot long sharks, however, the small Galapagos penguins are not going to give anyone a scare.
The Archipel generally traveled between islands at night. After Isla Bartolomé and Sullivan Bay we headed to Isla Santa Cruz to see Galapagos Giant Tortoises.
By the end of day three – not even the halfway point of the trip – we were exhausted. In our next post we will go over our daily schedule and the nature “walks” in more detail.
Garrett and Stephanie
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Would LOVE to go there …. And never will, so thanks for the tour!
How do you go about finding lodging where you travel (also the catamaran!)?? This all sounds so wonderful!
We stay in Airbnbs the majority of the time, usually two to four weeks at a time. Occasionally hotels for a random night or two. The Archipel was found on Liveaboard.com.