We knew for sure that we would take a Ha Long Bay cruise. Deciding on a two night cruise, instead of a one night cruise or day trip, was the easy part. First, we wanted to avoid the congestion caused by day trip boats. Second, we figured that one day of lousy weather won’t completely ruin a two night cruise.
Based on various reviews, it seemed pretty clear that the least crowded area is actually Bai Tu Long Bay, one of three named bays that are generally called Ha Long Bay (Lan Ha Bay is the other). So we selected a cruise that went to Bai Tu Long Bay.
We did not expect to see even a fraction of the 1,600 plus limestone islands in the greater area. But we did want to see areas largely free of other boats. Thankfully, that is what we got.
After much research, we settled on Renea Cruises because its four ships are relatively small (14 cabins maximum) and reasonably affordable ($540 for two). All meals are included, as is water, tea, and coffee. Coke ($1.50), beer ($3), and mixed drinks ($7, or $14 for three) are available for purchase at the bar.
Renea also agreed to pick us up in Hanoi and send us to Ninh Binh after the cruise, so we did not have to waste time and money returning to Hanoi only to get right on a bus to Ninh Binh.
Day One
Guests are picked up at their hotel in Old Quarter Hanoi in a very nice shuttle bus between 7:30 and 8:30 AM. Unfortunately we did not stay in Old Quarter, so we had to meet the bus at 7:30 AM at its departure point.
The drive to Ha Long (the city) took three hours with a thirty minute stop included. We arrived at the cruise port at 11:30 AM.
I’m not sure if we witnessed the work of the Vietnam government or Chinese investors, but the phrase “if you build it, they will come” applies to Ha Long. New shops, apartments, and hotels are being built at a rapid pace. And they are almost all entirely empty. We drove past numerous finished strip malls and apartment complexes with not a person in sight. All vacant. Mid-day on a Tuesday.
The same can be said about the amusement park and man-made beach. It was bizarre. We might have to return to Ha Long in another five years just to see if the massive bet on tourism paid off.
The cruise port was pure chaos. Everyone either gets on or off a cruise between 11:00 AM and noon. Tour operators were trying to shepherd numerous groups through the building without losing anyone. Renea Cruises passengers were directed to line up along a wall at one side of the café.
After everyone finished paying for the cruise (cash or card), we headed out to the boat, got settled in our assigned cabins, and had lunch (soup, salad, crab cakes, chicken curry, squid stir fry, and rice). The cruise out to Bai Tu Long Bay was perfect. Warm, sunny, and calm water.
Kayaking at Cap La Island was our afternoon activity. We went to a designated kayak dock where dozens of kayaks (sit on top doubles) were waiting for use by cruise passengers. Flip flops, waterproof bags, and towels were provided by Renea Cruises.
For about two hours we kayaked around a large limestone island and spent time on a small beach. The water was a bit cold. Few people went swimming. Most importantly it was sunny and warm.
Back on board the boat, and after a quick shower, we had a fruit snack at 6:00 PM. A cooking demonstration was held at 6:30 PM (how to make decorative flowers from vegetables). About half the passengers – including us – skipped the demonstration in favor of drinking $3 beers on the top deck and admiring the scenery.
Dinner was served at 7:00 PM (soup, potato salad, spring rolls, passion fruit chicken, fried rice). Every meal involved multiple courses. For some reason white rice was always served last, which always confused us. Regardless, the food was plentiful. No one went hungry.
After dinner was free time. The tour guide told us that karaoke in the lounge would take place at 9:00 PM, but I don’t think anyone bothered. Squid fishing at night was also on offer, but it did not look that interesting. It had been a long day.
Two
Breakfast was served at 7:00 AM, a buffet of cold eggs, cold bacon, cold sausages (hot dogs), zero salt, toast and croissants, mango juice, and coffee. It wasn’t great, but it was good enough.
For the early risers, a session of Tai Chi is held at 6:00 AM. We slept in.
At 8:30 AM we left the main ship to join a “day boat” to explore the bay. The day boat is a smaller ship, without cabins and not quite as nice. The morning was cool and overcast. Few people went on the morning kayak at Cong Dam. Most stayed on the day boat relaxing, reading, or working on a computer.
While it was cool and foggy in the morning, the weather quickly changed to sunny and warm. Basically perfect.
Lunch on the day boat was pretty good (fried prawns, pork in onions and peppers, carrot and cucumber salad, grilled sea bass, rice, and a custard desert). Better than on the ship. Afterward we went on a rowboat ride through Vung Vieng, a floating village. Oddly, the village appeared somewhat staged. I’m sure it was a real village several decades ago, not so much now.
We arrived back on the main ship about 2:30 PM.
Renea Cruises is able to accommodate one night and two night cruise options on the same ship by shuttling the main ship to and from the cruise port each day to drop off and pick up passengers, while the two night passengers are on exploring the bay from the day boat.
So our day two afternoon was the exact same as our day one afternoon. The ship sailed to the same location and offered the same kayaking trip. We skipped the afternoon kayaking to relax on the ship. Our overnight anchor was even in the same location.
Once again we had a fruit snack at 6:00 PM. The same cooking demonstration was held at 6:30 PM, which we again skipped in favor of drinking beers on the top deck and admiring the now familiar scenery. Dinner at 7:00 PM was similar to the night before with a slightly different menu, but rice was still served last. No one sang karaoke. I don’t think anyone went squid fishing, either.
Day Three
Our final day began at 7:00 AM with a buffet of cold eggs, cold bacon, cold sausages (hot dogs), zero salt, toast and croissants, mango juice, and coffee. This morning we knew to only eat croissants.
Again, no Tai Chi for us.
At 7:45 AM we headed to Thien Canh Son Cave. It’s a nice cave, but when four or five tour groups of 20 or so people each are trying to go through around the same time … not so much. The views of the water are supposed to be really nice, and might be but for being partially obscured by overgrown bushes.
An hour later we were back on the ship heading to port. Along the way there was another cooking demonstration. How to make fresh spring rolls. We watched the demonstration only because it was set up right next to our table in the main dining room.
Brunch was served at 10:30 AM (jicama and carrot salad, fried fish, squid cakes, pork balls, and rice). This might have been the best meal of all on the ship, though not as good as lunch on the day boat.
The last order of business is paying the bar tab. You don’t have to do this until the ship is in the harbor so that it has internet connection and a workable credit card machine.
We had spotty mobile data during the cruise – just enough to make our phones and VPNs continually strive to make connections without sustained success. Assuming you use your phone to take photographs and videos, just turn mobile data off. Otherwise, you are burning through your data plan and phone’s battery for no reason.
All things considered, we really enjoyed the cruise, but it was far from perfect. Thankfully we selected the two night cruise. Folks who did the one night cruise (the majority) basically got a straight run from the port to the designated anchor location, a spin in a kayak, and a cave tour the next morning before making the reverse trip back to the port. Nice enough but not great.
Being in Bai Tu Long Bay, we assume, was a huge plus. We saw relatively few other ships.
The most enjoyable part of the cruise was on the day boat as we cruised around the bay for a few hours to various destinations.
Ironically the worst part about the cruise was arguably the day boat. We did not like leaving the comfort of our private cabin behind for the better part of a day. But it was a small price to pay for cruising around the bay.
The one other minor negative was the direction and speed at which the ship traveled back to the port on our final morning. We were basically just outside the port by 9:30 AM or so, with our final departure scheduled for 11:30 AM. It would have been nice for the ship to wander a bit through the bay on its return to see a different area.
A final plus was being picked up and dropped off in different cities, saving us quite a bit of time and money. Unfortunately our ride to Ninh Binh was not in a luxury coach, like our trip from Hanoi. Instead we were in a beat up passenger van. But it got us there.
Garrett and Stephanie
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