After a one hour flight from Luang Prabang, we touched down in Hà Nội at about 8:30 PM. A forty minute ride in the dark to our Airbnb didn’t tell us much about Ba Đình (our neighborhood district). We hate arriving in new places at night because it is difficult to get an immediate feel for the area.
The next morning we quickly discovered that we are staying across the street from the Central Office of the Communist Party of Vietnam, as well as numerous other government buildings, and around the corner from the Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. I’m not sure we could be in a safer area. Armed military guards are stationed on every block.
Finding a place to get a coffee is never a problem in Vietnam. Cafés are everywhere. While there are no grocery stores of any size in our neighborhood, there are a couple of nearby convenience stores sufficient to pick up cokes, beer, and snacks.
A twenty minute walk leads us to Hanoi’s Old Quarter, which is more chaotic than you can imagine. After a bit of trepidation, we got used to walking in the narrow streets with bikes, scooters, and cars passing by inches away. You just have to embrace it. And learn to trust the local drivers, who actually do a great job.
Sidewalks exist, but are completely taken over by scooter parking, restaurant seating, or stuff set out for sale by vendors. Within the Old Quarter it is easier to walk in the street than to navigate what little remains of the sidewalks. Outside of Old Quarter the sidewalks are often wide enough to accommodate a walking path.
Crossing the street is not near as hazardous as it looks at first glance. You can wait for traffic to clear entirely, but you might be waiting a really, really long time.
The best course of action is to wait for traffic to lighten and then just start walking across the street at a consistent pace. Oncoming cars and scooters, with enough room, will adjust to your walking path and go around you. At first the traffic will pass by in front of you. Then you’ll notice traffic starting to pass behind you as well. Then you’re across.
Watching the cars, scooters, and bikes navigate the streets is like watching a perfectly choreographed ballet.
Unfortunately I never took a photograph that encapsulates the terror and beauty of crossing the street. Probably because we were too busy making sure we did not get run over. Though once you get used to it, crossing the street is actually kind of fun.
Though we prefer to avoid trendy tourist things, sometimes it’s inevitable. So we went to train street, a section of train tracks two or three blocks long that run closely between the buildings on either side. Decades ago the buildings were probably stores or residences. Like a normal neighborhood. Now they’re just overpriced cafés decorated like New Orleans during Mardi Gras.
For the price of an overpriced coffee (the yogurt coffee is surprisingly awesome) or beer, you get the privilege to sit and watch a train go by a couple of feet away for about a minute and a half. Or you can go to an upstairs balcony and watch the train at roof level.
Between the two, ground level is much more interesting than the balcony level. At ground level your views of the oncoming train are never totally blocked. The folks in front of you can only lean out so far. And of course the train passes by extraordinarily close. On a balcony you are over the train and can lean out as far as you want. But watching a train pass by below really is not that interesting.
Arrive about thirty minutes early to scope out a decent seat. About five minutes before the train arrives whistles will blow. That’s the signal for the cafés to get paid up for their drinks and for late arrivals to find a seat.
Before and after the trains pass through (you can check the schedule online), the tracks are packed with people taking selfies and vendors selling trinkets. All in all its somewhat interesting.
The obligatory video of the train is at the end of the post.
Not far from train street is one of several cathedrals in Hanoi, St. Joseph Cathedral (Nhà Thờ Lớn). We headed there one evening for two reasons. First, to see something different from a temple. Second, because there is a Popeye’s next door.
The cathedral is nice. Popeye’s is fantastic. It is almost just like being at home. The gravy isn’t quite Cajun gravy, but it is a worthy imitation. And there is a drink station to get unlimited coke refills. We ended up eating here twice.
Speaking of food, unfortunately Vietnamese food – in our opinion – isn’t that great. We thought the food in Thailand and Laos was much better. So by day three in Hanoi we decided to make sure we always have a bag of chips (plain Lay’s or Pringles) to eat in an emergency. It is easy to tire of rice and/or noodles, even more so if Asian flavors aren’t your thing.
Hanoi is the first city on this trip with a fine arts museum, Bảo tàng Mỹ thuật Việt Nam. Naturally it was one of the first places we visited. The admission price is only 40,000 ₫ (about $1.60 each). If for some reason you want an audio guide (we didn’t), prepare to shell out an additional 150,000 ₫.
For some reason audio guide rentals cost several times more than the cost of admission. We noticed that at several different attractions across Hanoi. I guess it’s a form of insurance to cover the equipment cost.
Few other people were at the museum during our visit, maybe six or so. The first floor contains artifacts and sculptures, the second floor houses paintings, and, the third floor has paintings and graphic arts. A separate wing houses contemporary art, ceramics, and temporary exhibitions.
At the time of our visit the temporary exhibition focused on bronze objects over 2,000 years old. Yes, there is a café and museum shop.
We weren’t sure what to expect of the museum, but it is really well done. Signs are in multiple languages (typically Vietnamese, French, and English). The layout is easy to follow. I guess we were there a little over an hour and enjoyed it quite a bit.
In particular, we really appreciated the fact that employees don’t make it a point to hover nearby like they do in many European museums.
For a much different experience, across the street is the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu Quốc Tử Giám). Built in 1070, soon thereafter this became the first national school in Vietnam. It is dedicated to the teachings of Confucius.
Basically this is a well-kept complex of a few buildings, temples, paths, ponds, courtyards, and gates which are packed with tourists most of the day. If you don’t want to mingle with tour groups, get there early in the morning. We arrived about 9:30 AM, and were still too late.
Admission cost 70,000 ₫ (about $2.80 each). It probably took us thirty minutes to walk through the complex. We didn’t go slow or linger much because it was only getting more crowded by the minute.
Except for the fine arts museum, we learned pretty quickly that avoiding crowds in Hanoi is near impossible.
Garrett and Stephanie
If you have not already done so, read our other post about Hanoi:
Hanoi, Vietnam (February, 2025, Part II). History is rewritten at the Hanoi Hilton; relaxing on Beer Street.
For additional posts about Vietnam, or elsewhere in the world, check out our Travel Blog. It contains collected links to all of our travel posts.
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