It snowed! First snow of the year in the upper elevations of Utah’s southern mountains. As we drove west across Utah Highway 9, to the east entrance of Zion National Park, the mountain tops were covered in snow.
Thankfully the roads and lower elevations were snow free. So while Zion Canyon was overcast and cold (high 40s), we were not driving or hiking in snow.
We arrived at the visitor’s center about 9:30 AM. Signs indicated that the parking lot was full and visitors should park in Springdale, the town just outside the park. Luckily we got one of the last parking spots available at the visitor’s center. Ten minutes later the lot was full.
Most of the year the scenic road into Zion Canyon is closed except to park shuttle buses. The main bus stop is in front of the visitor center. We walked right onto a bus with no waiting. During our ride the bus driver repeatedly told us how pretty the snow looked and how cold it was outside.
On our first day in Zion we explored the lower canyon. After a fifteen minute bus ride, Stephanie and I exited at the Zion Lodge stop. Our destination for the day was the Emerald Pools trails, one of the more popular hikes in the park.
The Lower Emerald Pools trail is mostly a concrete sidewalk, with little elevation change change, which makes it very popular. The best feature about this trail is that it winds under and behind the lower falls. The Upper Emerald Pools trail is 0.3 miles one way, mostly a steep uphill, with a lot of rocks to walk and hop over. I did not realize this beforehand and Stephanie was a good sport about it.
Thankfully the upper waterfall was worth the hike and not a disappointment.
While the Emerald Pools trails were not too crowded, there was a steady stream of hikers going to and from the lower and upper waterfalls the entire morning.
On the way back we took the Kayenta trail – not a concrete sidewalk – to the Grotto bus stop, instead of returning to Zion Lodge. No particular reason, other than that we wanted to hike a different trail out. In total we hiked 2.5 miles, one of our favorites hikes on this trip.
At the Grotto we hopped straight onto a bus heading back to the visitor’s center. As the sun was finally peeking out, we made a quick stop at the Court of the Patriarchs to check out the sights. Then it was back onto a bus to return to the visitor’s center.
Our planned picnic turned into lunch sitting in the car with the heater on because it was too cold outside to enjoy a real picnic. We had the usual: peanut butter and jelly sandwiches; an apple or banana; a few chips; and, cokes.
That afternoon we ventured up the Watchman trail, which starts at the visitor’s center. By this time Stephanie figured out that hikes with elevation gains above 400 feet can be fairly difficult, depending on the length of the trail. This hike barely made the cut, with an elevation gain of 368 feet over 1.5 miles (3.0 miles roundtrip). Not a problem.
Even though the Watchman trail starts at the visitor’s center, there was much less traffic on this trail compared to the Emerald Pools trails. I gather most visitors arrive at Zion, hop on a shuttle bus, and head into the canyon instead of exploring near the visitor’s center.
All in all, day one in Zion was a success, though a bit warmer weather would have been nice.
Our second day in Zion started with a disappointment. We intended to hike the short Canyon Overlook trail (located on the east side of the park), but it was closed because of a falling rock hazard.
We knew that the parking lot at the visitor’s center might be full when we arrived, and it was. We circled the parking lot a few times without success. It was 10:30 AM and no one in the park was leaving just yet.
The parking lot at Zion’s museum is an easy half mile walk from the visitor’s center. We should have checked there for a spot before heading into Springdale to park, but at the time did not think to do so.
The closest parking lot in Springdale is adjacent to Zion’s pedestrian entrance. Perfect. Except that Zone A parking in Springdale is $40 for the day. Ugh, no thanks. We drove farther into town looking for less expensive parking. About a mile south of Zion we came to Zone B parking, which is $25 for the day. Okay, fine.
Springdale must make a small fortune on parking fees.
A shuttle bus runs through Springdale, picking up visitors at eight different stops and dropping them off at Zion’s pedestrian entrance. The bus stops are conveniently located next to hotels and large public parking lots. After a ten-minute wait at Springdale Shuttle Stop 6 we hopped onto a bus. Ten minutes later were we walking into Zion at the pedestrian entrance next to the visitor’s center.
Overall our impression is that the shuttle buses – in the park and in town – are well run.
Because of the time of day, a short line had formed for the park’s shuttle bus. We waited about 20 minutes to get onto a park bus. Then it took us 30 minutes to get to the Temple of Sinawava, the last stop in the canyon. Our plan for day was to explore the upper canyon.
Temple of Sinawava is the starting point for one of the most well-known hikes in Zion, the Narrows. This hike is in a small river through a towering canyon.
The one-mile Riverside Walk trail leads to the start of the Narrows hike. The trail is paved and handicapped accessible. We saw several folks in wheelchairs making this trip. The Riverside Walk ends at the North Fork of the Virgin River, where your choice is to hike in the river or turn around.
On the day we visited, the water temperature was 49 degrees and the air not much warmer. If you want to hike the Narrows in cool weather, various outfitters in Springdale rent waterproof shoes, pants, and a hiking stick for about $60 a day. We saw dozens of folks in rental gear heading into the water. A few walked a mile or more upriver into the Narrows. But I’d estimate that most people turned around after a hundred yards or less. A whole lot of those $60 waterproof rentals did not get much water on them.
In the summer, when it’s hot outside and the water is warmer – and there are no flash flood warnings – I’m sure the Narrows is a must-do hike. When it’s overcast and cold, walking through fast moving water on and over rocks of various sizes and shapes (that you can’t really see), not so much.
Stephanie and I kept to the Riverside Walk trail, though instead of taking the paved trail we walked along the river bank for the two-mile round trip. Just after the paved trail begins there is a sign noting that river access is to the left. Follow that sign and you will find a trail running along the side of the river most of the way to the Narrows. It is much more pleasant than walking on the paved trail.
After exploring the Riverside Walk trail we hopped back on the shuttle bus and rode to the Grotto stop, the starting point for the West Rim Trail. The leads to the other well known hike in Zion, to Angels Landing.
Angels Landing involves going up a narrow ridge over a drop off of thousands of feet. Considering the massive elevation gain and head spinning exposure to heights, I did not even suggest this hike to Stephanie.
A permit is required to get on Angel’s Landing trail, but I did not bother to apply. The hike takes the better part of half a day. I did not want to think of how much money Stephanie would spend at a spa in Springdale if I took off on a half day hike.
Instead we followed the West Rim trail for about half a mile, before serious elevation gain commenced, and then left the trail to head over to the river, where you can walk most of the way back to the start of the trail. The river walk is not well defined, but we made it back to the main trail without difficulty.
Returning to the Grotto stop we encountered a long line of folks waiting for a park shuttle. Rather than wait we chose to walk the one mile Grotto trail to Zion Lodge. Once at the lodge we found an even longer line of folks waiting for a park shuttle. Oops. Luckily two shuttle buses came almost at once and we did not have to wait long before returning to the visitor’s center.
Likewise we got right on a Springdale bus and were back at the car in no time, heading to a convenience store for cokes and sugar before driving back to Monticello.
Zion National Park, Miles Hiked:
Day One: 5.5 miles (Lower Emerald Pools Trail, Upper Emerald Pools Trail, Kayenta Trail, and the Watchman Trail)
Day Two: 4.2 miles (estimated) (Riverside Walk Trail, a portion of the West Rim Trail, and the Grotto Trail)
Stephanie decided that Zion is her favorite National Park. I like Zion an awful lot, but still prefer a few other parks, notably Grand Canyon’s North Rim, Bryce Canyon, Death Valley, and maybe Canyonlands.
Hopefully one day we will return to Zion. If so it will be during warmer weather so we can join the massive crowds hiking the Narrows, and perhaps I’ll attempt Angels Landing. Exploring the eastern side of the park (east of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel) would also be worth our time.
Garrett and Stephanie
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